Description
Cuir Moderne
When I heard about Apricot Brandy, I just had to go find some artisanal liqueur. The good stuff – WOW! it’s really delicious! That bottle went really fast… Apricot Brandy is the perfect opening for Cuir Moderne…
I was fascinated by the Osmanthus flowers, known as Osmanthus in China, and Sweet Olive here in the USA, sometimes. I was so intrigued that Osmanthus has floral, apricot, tobacco, and leather notes, all by itself. Cuir Moderne is built around fresh Osmanthus flowers, and extending it from the top to the bottom. A moderne twist is a slight raspberry note, that sends it singing out with “Let’s Go Play!”. This isn’t a sit still lump on a log. Cuir Moderne is for those out to make it happen…
The notes again are: Apricot Brandy, Fresh Osmanthus flowers, humming along with bits of Iris, Orangeblossom, and Jasmine, Patchouli, Tobacco, some Spices, Woods, Oud, Amber, a touch of Raspberry, and of course, Leather.
Henrique Perrella Reviews Cuir Moderne, 10-8-2019
Concept: 9.5
Olfactory: 9.5
Performance: 9.5
Final Score: 9.5
Criteria:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Performance
Category: Artisanal/Indie Niche
It is interesting to read the story that perfumer Paul post puts on the page of Cuir Moderne because it shows how a creative concept can start at a certain point and evolves organically to another that at first had no direct relation to the starting point – as the case of an apricot liqueur and a leather perfume. Inspired by the succulent sweet aroma of the liqueur, the perfumer uses a realistic reproduction of the osmanthus flower aroma to produce an exotic scent of fruity, floral and modern leathery nuances. The secret of this inspiration lies right in the center of osmanthus, as the flower has fruity characteristics when fresh and acquires an oily leathery aroma when undergoing the distillation process.
I would say that even though Cuir Moderne does not immediately make you think of Osmanthus, it is a good interpretation of the subject, one that can strike a good balance between the floral and fruity aspect and the oily leather aroma. Cuir Moderne is also one of Paul Kiler’s rounder, softer perfumes, perhaps not just rounder because of the modern leather theme that involves aromas of tobacco oud and a more artificial leather that gives it a plastic subtle nuance. Yet it is one of his fragrances that seems to evolve more languidly / sensually on the skin.
Cuir Moderne may even bring the scent of oud and woody amber to create a more modern leather aura, but it is still structured with complexity and a gradual pace of evolution that brings you closer to a modernization of classic leather. At first this strong and masculine aroma of leather reigns in the composition, but slowly you can see the apricot liqueur aroma rounding and softening this opening. The most floral side of osmanthus appears on the skin amid a pleasant harmony of iris, orange and jasmine. The oily, leathery side of the osmanthus takes a long time to appear and is well balanced with the oriental part of the idea, resulting from the return of focus to the woody aroma of the opening. which gains more evidence in tobacco and patchouli to finalize the composition.
In terms of performance at first Cuir Moderne seems to be a little bit suffocating but the way the perfume harmonizes the more delicate and aggressive aspects of Osmanthus makes its aroma quickly comfortable while remaining noticeable during the day. Working on a theme that involves both abstract and realistic reproduction, Paul delivers one of his most enjoyable perfumes and does without sacrificing complexity.
CASSIANO
Besides Heaven Fresh and Starry Starry Night, in 2016 Paul Kiler also launched Cuir Moderne, bringing back his Midas touch with regard to the most intense fragrances, especially those that carry leather notes. Only those who have tried their other fragrances created under this theme – Red Leather and Gold Leather – will understand my references at this time.
When it comes to innovation, which is one of the roots of the creation of the PK Perfumes brand, Cuir Moderne is Paul Kiler’s area of expertise. We are accustomed to perfumes that bring leather notes combined with amber or with citrus or with some spices, in order to reinforce a drier aspect and a virility side in the fragrance. Cuir Moderne is different because it is a fruity and alcoholic fragrance, with the leather acting as a supporting actor (of those who always end up winning the Oscar in place of the main actor).
The fragrance features notes of apricot brandy, fresh osmanthus flowers, iris, orange blossom, jasmine, patchouli, tobacco, spices, woods, oud, amber, raspberry, and leather.
To create Cuir Moderne, the perfumer says that he went after an artisanal liquor as soon as he heard of such brandy made with apricots. Upon experiencing the beverage, he immediately knew it would be the perfect opening for this fragrance. To complement, he decided to use the small flowers of the rare shrubs of Asian origin, known as osmanthus, with its exotic, warm and fruity scent, reminiscent of apricots with a touch of tobacco.
On my skin, Cuir Moderne behaves in a linear and exemplary manner. It smells like a spicy and camphorated jelly of apricots, prepared with a touch of brandy that brings the luminous side of the orange blossom mixed with the warm and aromatic touch of the tobacco. For those who like woody fragrances, there is also a lot of wood content. The leather is not dry, but it also does not give excessive tenderness. And the raspberry came to bring a nuance of modernity, with its fruity and sour smell, contrasting with the density of the base.
Cuir Moderne is one of those fragrances that carry the signature of Paul Kiler and that deserve to enter into the radar of leathery fragrance lovers with a different style and some innovation. Undoubtedly, it is a fruity-leathery alcoholic perfume of great performance and low competitiveness. It’s worth having a bottle to call your own.