Description
Tuberose flowers have been my very favorite flowers for many years…
My romance with them began after I discovered them on a trip to India in 1987. I found them in the market and brought them back to my room where I stayed, to enjoy them while I stayed in Pune, India. Again in travels to other places like Indonesia and Nicaragua, I’ve managed to find fresh Tuberose flowers to give a wonderful room filling heady beauty and grace to my lodgings. I’ve sought to include Tuberose in my scents, as with my Gold Leather and Craissa perfumes. But the *Fresh* flower odor eluded my knowledge, abilities, and available raw materials.
I sought to find out more, and learn the secrets of how to make a very fresh tuberose flower scent over the course of several years, and to acquire the right raw materials to match my vision. This type of fresh flower odor formulation is called a “headspace” composition. The Headspace of a fresh flower is what you smell exactly when you smell them, instead of what might be from an extraction like from an essential oil or an Absolute, which doesn’t ever match a fresh flower’s odor profile.
This last fall, I was finally able to acquire the last needed raw materials to make trials and a final blend, and I was able to compose the basis of this Tuberose fresh flower soliflore.
Paul Kiler
PK Perfumes
PS: TNT is a scent that seems to wear *particularly well* on fabric or even paper. I suggest wearing part of it on skin, and part, maybe 50/50, on your lapel, strap, or other cloth you are wearing. When I wear it, it seems to evaporate much differently than it does on other substances, and it seems nicer on them than on myself, and lasts longer as well. This tip may be helpful for some people, and depends upon your body chemistry and diet.
pkil3r
WOW! Paul!
I spritzed on the TNT as soon as it arrived in this afternoon’s mail and about 25 to 30 min. in, it’s GORGEOUS! I keep getting whiffs of this beautiful and creamy white flower.
Love the naturalness of it.
You have a winner here.
Sincerely,
Dawn
CASSIANO
TAMA N TUBEROSE, BY PAUL KILER (by Cassiano Silva – Perfumart)
In 2014, the perfumer Paul Kiler realized a project that united the launching of a fragrance with a social action. While preparing the launch of TNT – Tama N Tuberose, he made the donation of the major part obtained with the pre-sale to help with the medical expenses of cancer treatment of the artist Tama Blough, whose fundraising project called Give Forward, had been already released in social media. Unfortunately, Tama passed away in January 2015, shortly thereafter.
The perfumer decided not to change the name, nor the image linked in its page, which brings the photo of the artist, besides part of a quilt made by her (one of her hobbies) and her inseparable cat Buster, as a way of paying a tribute.
Paul Kiler’s passion for tuberose was born in 1987, during a trip through India. Over the years, he made use of it in some of his creations, but he always kept the desire to create a unique perfume that would enhance the beauty of this singular flower. He knew he needed the correct raw materials in order to get his perfect view of fresh flowers, which is quite different from what we normally get with an absolute.
Then, unlike the more opulent florals of the market, which carries the note of tuberose allied to jasmine or ylang-ylang, creating a white and indolic accord, he used notes of musk and ambergris along with tuberose. And the result is completely unexpected, as Tama N Tuberose has a floral soul but a wax body. It looks as if someone has just handed you a fresh-cut tuber of fresh flowers, and that velvety texture of the petals has been transferred into the fragrance.
The joke with the name is also cool because TNT is the acronym for Trinitrotoluene, which is an explosive substance and has everything to do with the fragrance, composed in a concentration of Pure Parfum and extremely rich, in every aspect.
Tama N Tuberose is not an easy-to-understand perfume, even for those who love fragrances that are rich in tuberose content, just like me. The vegetable aspect (which resembles wax) is very strong, especially at the beginning, and may bother. At the same time, it is a delight to feel the floral facet unfolding gradually, not to mention the pleasure of discovering that there is much more to be unveiled in the field of perfumery.
Paul Kiler gave life to a soliflore that is worthy to a flower that is multifaceted and carnal, never casual.